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Feature Article

Hot Rod Warrior Part 2
By Scooter Kizer
Copyright 2003 Motorcycle Street and Strip Magazine


In our previous and opening article for this project in Volume 4, Issue 2, we started with a new Yamaha Road Star Warrior and began tearing off stock parts and replacing them with aftermarket replacements. We found our baseline performance by dyno and track testing. We then added a Vance & Hines Pro Exhaust and Dynojet Power Commander III and retested.

We mentioned in the original story that in phase two we would install an air filter kit, cover the custom dyno mapping and install items from our first of two cosmetic phases. But after choosing the brand of air kit we would use and realizing how much time we needed to dedicate to it, we will move the dyno and cosmetic changes to future stories.

The installation of an aftermarket air filter kit is for better performance allowing more air to feed the aftermarket add-ons. For this upgrade, we had two options. Thunder Manufacturing provided us with an external air filter kit with replacement cover. Baron’s Custom Accessories provided their BAK (Big Air Kit) that eliminates the stock air box, pollution devices and relocates the coils and air sensors for a cleaner look. Though the BAK is far more complicated and takes seven hours to install, we chose to use it for the cleaner look and the future elimination of the right side cover. The installation of the BAK was complicated enough to dedicate a whole story to the proper installation.

Before you start this project, it would be a good time to purchase a bike lift, even if it’s one of those $150 ones from Sam’s. A Jak Lift from Handy or similar is a nicer lift but one or the other is a must in our next step when we start removing wheels, so if your going to invest in one, you might as well get one now. Actually, it would have made the exhaust installation much easier too.

To install the Baron’s Big Air Kit (BAK) you need to understand some of Yamaha’s terminology. At this point forward you must have a Yamaha XV1700P Service Manual. Without it, you may reach a roadblock when you come to terms like “Air Silencer Box”. But more importantly, it’s easier to identify parts with the exploded diagrams. Remember, you might be a closet shade tree mechanic and think you know the name of every part, but trust me, everyone’s instructions will include terminology that you will not recognize, especially when it comes to electrical and fuel injection parts and components.

If you feel that Baron’s BAK is too labor intensive and don’t mind the look of all the electronics tied to the down tubes on the frame, they are also working on an external BAK that will not require relocation of the coils or sensors and save many hours of installation. For those who like the clean look and are ready to tackle the job ahead remember to follow the instructions with the helpful following insights that we found during our installation.

As you are ordering parts, Baron’s sells a separate “Air Injection Block Off Kit” that should be part of the BAK, make sure to buy it. The invention of the block off kit came before the BAK so it is sold separately. If you were to use someone else’s air filter kit, you would want Baron’s block off kit to remove all the pollution junk anyway. But when using the BAK and the block off kit, you need to remove both air box and AIS, “Air Induction System” stuff at the same time. Refer to sections 3-9 and 6-44 in the YSM, “Yamaha Service Manual”. The best advice is to look at your service manual and start taking everything loose or off to access the parts you want to remove. Be very careful to label every hose or connector you disconnect or you’ll need a plumber to help you put it back together. Keep all connections labeled until you are happy with your performance. If they bike does not operate properly, it will be necessary to trace your steps and insure you have not crossed connections. You can easily remove your labels later. If you are installing only the block off kit, you will still need to remove the air box to access the rear throttle body vacuum line.

When removing the Air Cut-Off Valve (air pump) remove the four pump bolts then disconnect the fuel line, and remove vacuum lines from the fuel line bracket to allow easy access to elbow fittings on cylinder heads. With the fuel line and bracket out of the way, you can easily install block off flanges. When installing the stock washer/gasket under the block off flanges, instructions do not require it, but I used RTV hi temp red gasket maker to insure no exhaust leakage. Reinstall the fuel line and bracket, but connect the fuel line first then swing the bracket into position and fasten. When you get to the removing of the LCV (Linear control valve) bracket, you should have a short 5mm ball driver or be very patient when removing. It is obvious this was installed prior to the engine at the assembly plant.

The key to the “looks portion” of the BAK is an aluminum plate that mounts under the gas tank in place of the stock air box. This plate is where the coils and sensors are relocated. When relocating the coils, mount the front coil on the right side of the plate. (if you have an old set of instructions, there was a misprint that showed the coils in the wrong location). The rear coil mounting may require drilling out the mounting holes slightly to accommodate the provided bolts. Leave the plate loose to allow access under plate until you have reran every wire and hose. Start the nuts on the atmospheric pressure sensor and outside air intake sensor, they will have to be loose to allow for plate mounting bolts when you are ready to securely mount.

When reconnecting LCV hoses, the left hose has a factory inline splice that allows you to simply remove a section to properly fit the relocated LCV. Don’t panic when you can’t find the hose to connect to the atmospheric pressure sensor. There is a hose bib, but it reads atmospheric pressure straight from the hose bib, no hose provided or needed. The “E” clip supplied is to use in place of a nut for the air sensor. The instruction call for the supplied M12 nut, but they are referring to the “E” clip. I used a sensor nut, obtained from Mr. Turbo. It’s a weird tread nut and not readily available. Before installing the K&N filters provided in the BAK, wipe the throttle bodies, filter ring and hose clamps with lacquer thinner or solvent to prevent the filters from popping off the throttle body when tightening the hose clamp. Also install the hose to the center LCV before installing the bigger filter. The supplied hose is very tight and hard to install with filter in the way.

When zip tying the remaining wiring harness under the front of the frame, you can use the discarded intake air sensor bracket and attach it to the bottom of the frame rail under the tank to use as a wire hold and zip tie mount. This model of the BAK is a time consuming effort for relocating coils and sensors, but well worth it in the long run for making a clean hot rod look. Whether you go with the internal or external air filter kit you should find an additional ten to twelve horsepower. We will update our results on our next trip to the dyno room. I assume other than cosmetics, this is where some of you will stop, at least until you can save a few more dollars to go on to the next step. The next step in the engine process will gain a lot more horsepower, but it will also be the most expensive and labor-intensive horsepower upgrade. In the next issue we will be reverting back to our original plan and start our first of two cosmetic phases. Until then, catch up to where we are and start saving your money, where just getting started.


Resources
Baron’s 888.278.2819 www.baronscustom.com
Dynojet 702.920.8030 www.dynojet.com
Orient Express 800.645.6521 www.orientexpress.com
Patrick Racing 714.554.7070 www.patrickracingbillet.com
Thunder Manufacturing 602-269-5033 www.thundermfg.com
Vance & Hines 800.223.5952 www.vanceandhines.com


Future Sources
Yamaha; see your local dealer www.yamaha-motor.com
Barnett; to find dealer, see website www.barnettclutches.com



Photo Captions
1 [Looking down on bike from rear of bike] Stock air box with gas tank removed.
2 [close up of wires with numbers upright] Make sure to label each connector, masking tape and Sharpie work best.
4 [me] At the beginning of the project working on the ground is okay, but a lift will save your back and knees as you tear deeper into the project.
5 [top of engine from left side of bike] Once you’ve removed the air box and pollution devices, this is what’s left.
7 [left side of engine and empty bracket] With the air cut off valve removed the bracket remains as a bracket for the fuel lines and left side cover.
8 [top of motor after completion, aluminum plate should be on left with filters to right.] Completed job with relocation plate holding coils and sensors with new air filters directly on the throttle bodies and crank case breather filters.